There’s no “one sub to rule them all.” Different designs deliver different performance. Here’s a breakdown of the main types:

1. Sealed Subwoofers

Airtight and precise. Sealed subwoofers are all about speed and accuracy. They don’t move as much air as ported designs, but they’re tight, fast, and great for music lovers or smaller cinema rooms.

2. Ported Subwoofers

Also called bass reflex, ported subs use a tuned vent to move more air and deliver deeper bass — perfect for big rooms and earth-shaking cinema effects.

3. Bandpass Subwoofers

These use chambers around the driver to limit the frequency output and boost volume at a specific range. The result? Ultra-smooth bass that’s incredibly hard to localise.

Whatmough bandpass subs are a secret weapon in our custom installs — delivering “you feel it, not hear it” bass, especially in music-focused rooms.

4. Passive Radiator Subs

These use a driver and an unpowered “radiator” instead of a port. You get port-like bass without port noise, in smaller enclosures. We love these in slimline or design-conscious setups.

There’s a big difference between how subs are used for two-channel listening vs home theatre:

Music-First Systems

• Focus on speed and detail
• Sealed or bandpass designs excel here
• Integration is key — it shouldn’t steal the show

Cinema Subwoofers

• Big output, deep extension
• Ported or large-format sealed subs work best
• Think house-shaking rumbles and cinematic explosions

At TAE, we often recommend: SVS PB16-Ultra for deep, room-filling home cinema — paired with a sealed SVS SB-3000 to handle fast transients like gunfire or percussive hits. Yes, mixing types is controversial — but when done right, it's pure magic.

Subwoofers need serious power to move large drivers and control bass response. Here's what to know:

• Class D amplification: Most modern subs use it. Efficient, compact, powerful.
• DSP (Digital Signal Processing): Helps tailor the sub’s output to the room — some models allow app-based tuning.
• Wattage isn’t everything: A 300W amp with great control can beat a boomy 1000W with poor design.

Bass waves behave very differently than mids or highs — they bounce, cancel, and resonate depending on your room size and shape. These are called room modes.

Calculating Room Modes

Room modes can be roughly estimated using the formula: f = 343 / (2 × d), where f is the modal frequency in Hz and d is the room dimension in metres.

Example: In a room 4 m long: f = 343 / (2 × 4) = 42.875 Hz. This is a frequency where the room may boost or cancel bass. Multiply across width, height, and diagonals to find other modes.

Managing Room Modes

• Move your subwoofer — even 30 cm can change response
• Use bass traps or acoustic panels to control ringing
• Multiple subwoofers can cancel out modal peaks/nulls

One sub is good. Two (or more) is better — when set up correctly.

Benefits of Multi-Sub Systems

• Smoother bass response across the room
• Less localisation (bass feels like it’s everywhere)
• More dynamic headroom

Mixing Types

We sometimes pair a large ported sub (like an SVS PB16-Ultra) for explosions and deep rumbles, with a smaller sealed sub (like an SB-3000) to take care of tighter, punchy sounds. Some purists say never mix — but our ears say otherwise.

Positioning Tips

• Try front corners first, then stagger them
• Avoid placing all subs on the same wall if possible
• Calibrate individually, then together (using an AV processor or room correction software)